Ukuchu Direct Ice Wall Ascent 5-Days

Tour Overview

Ukuchu is a 5,526m technical peak on the southern side of Mount Gongga in western Sichuan. The direct north-face route is approximately 300m long, with an average ice slope of 60° and sections reaching nearly 70°. The route requires previous high-altitude and basic ice-climbing experience and is not suitable for beginners. The journey begins with an arrival and safety briefing in Chengdu, followed by travel through Kangding and Xinduqiao to Shangchengzi Village at 3,800m. After acclimatization, route instruction, and equipment checks, the team travels to Base Camp at 4,300m and climbs to Camp 1 at 5,000m. Summit day starts around 2:00 a.m. Climbers cross the glacier crevasse area, reach the base of the ice wall, and ascend in sections with professional guide support and fixed-rope protection. After reaching the 5,526m summit, the team descends via the ridge, returns to Camp 1, and continues back to the guesthouse. The trip includes a 1:1 certified mountain-guide ratio, technical climbing equipment, fixed-rope protection, camp accommodation, hot meals, shared-supply transport, satellite communication, emergency oxygen, mountaineering registration, and high-altitude insurance. Participants must have previous summit experience on a 5,000m peak, be able to hike for more than five hours carrying a pack, have no serious cardiovascular or respiratory conditions, and submit a medical examination report issued within the previous 12 months.